Notable eats... Fatty Crab

What’s it like at this new Malaysian comfort food shop? You’ll go in and see a neat restaurant with dark wood tables, a small bar and a glimpse of the kitchen behind it. Things are relaxed. The waiters will chat to you like you’re a college buddy (“Hey, so like, do you know how it works here? Things come out soon as they’re ready, and go in the middle of the table and you can all like, share and stuff. Okay, cool… now who wanted a beer?”), as they prop down some ice cold Tiger. And it all feels a little surreal until you tuck into a dish like the Fatty Duck, with its big chunks of crispy “brined, steamed and fried” duck in a sweet Hoison-like sauce. Or the succulent braised, slightly spicy, Short Ribs Rendang. Or the Oyster Omelet Ashraf, packed with oysters and served under a forest of coriander. Almost everything I tried led towards some gluttonous eating, though there were a couple misfires. The Java Mee soup comes packed with chewy egg noodles and interesting seafoods, but should only be ordered by serious fishy-flavor lovers. And the quail shooters, well, they’re interesting, but I imagine they go down better back home in Malaysia.

Overall though,